The Cook Islands’ main source of income is tourism but at the moment our borders are closed and there have been no overseas tourists since March 2020.
Tourism Cook Islands, Air Rarotonga and Island Hopper Vacations got together to organise excursions to the Pa Enua (outer islands) for locals at fantastically discounted prices.
The aim was to prepare new products for when our borders are open again.
There were two excursions, one to the northern group (Pukapuka, Manihiki and Penrhyn), the other to the southern group (Atiu, Mangaia, Mitiaro and Mauke).
We were lucky enough to get on to the first northern group tour.
First stop Pukapuka.
The other name, the Island of Beautiful Girls, is a different matter. It only appears in blog posts, the earliest from 2004, and none written by a Cook Islander. It could be the tropical island version of an urban myth.
John Roberts of the Kia Orana Cook Islands website says he found the comment in Elliot Smith’s book, ‘The Cook Islands Companion’ which was first published in 1991.
By the way, John’s website is packed with information about all aspects of life in all of the Cook Islands. It’s a wonderful resource for anyone interested in this part of the world.
Arrival
Our plane had no problems landing after the two hour flight from Rarotonga. We had a good view of the beautiful two-tone blue lagoon and three palm-covered islands with thin strips of yellow sand.
The airstrip is on Motu Ko where the mayor Levi Walewaoa and our island tour guide Edson greeted us
and we had a welcome drink of refreshing sweet nu, the first of many on this trip.
The main settlement is on the largest motu, Wale.
Coconut crabs
The three northern group atolls we visited have big lagoons and the normal mode of transport is an aluminium dinghy with an outboard motor so we walked across Motu Ko to pick up a boat on the lagoon side, pausing while Edson winkled a coconut crab out of its hidey-hole.
This was a medium sized crab, about 15-years-old with a lovely black, brown and orange carapace. It didn’t have the enormous claws of a fully grown crab – they can live up to fifty years.
Pukapukans are very conservation-minded and are careful not to over-harvest or take small crabs.
A boat, a swim, a tiki tour on Pukapuka
It took about half an hour to cover the 10km north to Wale where we had time for a swim before hopping aboard a pick-up truck for a tiki tour of the village.
Government offices are located at the administration centre in Ngake village and staff were smartly dressed in pareu uniforms although they didn’t look particularly busy.
The area also housed the BCI bank and Vodafone offices, the agriculture department and the solar power array. All the northern group islands have 24 hour solar power.
Eating in style
The taro was definitely home grown.
The road snakes through a large taro growing area in the interior of Wale. Over many years people have filled a depression in the coral with vegetation that has rotted down and become compost, very good for growing the important staple root crop.
Fresh sweet nu, served in the shell of course, washed our lunch down. Delicious.
Time to say goodbye to Pukapuka
Our original schedule called for an overnight stay on Pukapuka but the usual accommodation wasn’t available so we had just the day tour before flying on to Manihiki. Later tours were put up in the nurse’s house I believe.
All too soon it was time to cross the lagoon back to Motu Ko and the airstrip for our flight to the island of black pearls – Manihiki.