In 1893, Captain Richard With’s steamer, DS Vesteraalen, began a regular sea link along the coast of Norway. The service offered weekly departures, at first from Trondheim to Hammerfest and later from Bergen to Kirkenes. With named this important connection “hurtigruten,” – “the fast route”.
Two of Hurtigruten’s current fleet are named MS Richard With and MS Vesteraalen.
As well as catering for tourists, the ships are ferries. They carry freight, vehicles and mail to 34 coastal communities stopping in some villages and towns for 10 to 45 minutes just to unload or pick up passengers.
At larger cities and towns the stay is several hours allowing tourists to explore some of Norway’s most interesting places.
The Nordlys sailed along very smoothly all the time we were on her, but the weather can get rough and sometimes ferries will not call in to ports if the captain thinks it is dangerous.
Our ship the MS Nordlys
Hurtigruten ferries dock at Hurtigruteterminalen, located in Bergen.
Hurtigruten’s MS Nordlys docks at the ferry terminal in Bergen
Each ferry takes seven days to sail from Bergen to Kirkenes and six days to return.
They dock at about 2.45pm when passengers disembark and the ship is cleaned and re-stocked.
Sign at Hurtigruten terminal
We dropped our luggage at the terminal at about 1pm although check-in isn’t until 3.30pm. There’s a comfortable lounge to wait in – with snacks available. After check-in we were allowed to board the ship, via an elevated walkway, similar to aircraft boarding, but not to go to our cabins as the crew were still cleaning. Bags were delivered to cabins at about 6pm.
Our meals were all served in the Torget Restaurant on deck 4. Torget means ‘the square’; two and four seater tables were ranged around a central square with areas for salads, gluten free, soups, fish, cold meats and cheese, bread, sweets plus a hot section with several choices of mains and vegetables.
Wine is not included but several wine packages were available with choices of sparkling, whites and reds. One bottle of wine for each dinner. You can also buy wines separately.
There are other restaurants and cafes on the ship to accommodate ferry passengers not travelling on all-inclusive tickets.
Leaving Bergen on the first leg of the journey north on MS Nordlys
We sailed at 8.30pm, after dinner. In spite of the temperature – it was cold – lots of people were on the various decks, walkways and viewing areas to watch the lights of Bergen. This is a very attractive city both by day and night.
We were in an Arctic Superior cabin on deck 5. It was compact but comfortable. Space under the bed (a double) for the suitcases, a wardrobe, ensuite, and tea making facilities.
Excursions
Every day we stopped at a larger town or city, sometimes more than one. And at each of these stops there were several excursions available although often people would just disembark and go for a walk around town.
Each day one of the expedition crew members gave a talk, about the excursions or daily life in Norway, in the lecture hall at the opposite end of deck 4 from the restaurant.
Day 2: Hjorundfjord, Alesund
MS Nordlys in Hjorundfjorden – stopping point for a visit to the village of Urke
Alesund is a port of call on the MS Nordlys journey north in Norway
Day 3: Trondheim
Colourful wooden buildings along the river in Trondheim, Norway
Day 4: Bodo, Stamsund – Svolvaer
The harbour at Bodo in Norway
Meet the Vikings excursion in Stamsund, Norway with Hurtigruten’s coastal express journey
Day 5: Tromso
Mariner statue by the harbour in Tromso, Norway
Day 6: Honnigsvag
Nordkapp (North Cape), the northernmost point on the continent of Europe
Day 7: Kirkenes
Welcome to Kirkenes, the final port on Hurtigruten’s northern coastal journey
Scenery and onboard events
For most of the journey the ferries travel near the coast so you get great views of the magnificent scenery, mountains, valleys, fjords. Further north on our journey the mountains were dusted with snow. Beautiful.
Spectacular scenery with mountains and fjords along the coast of Norway
There are plenty of outside viewing spots but at times gusts of wind on deck were strong enough to push you backwards. In that case you could head for the Explorer Lounge on deck 7. Swivel seats around a set of panoramic windows with further tables and chairs and a bar available.
The Explorer Lounge on board the MS Nordlys
Most of the time passengers were left to their own devices – reading, relaxing and watching the world go by – but sometimes we were invited to the observation area on deck 7 for a variety of reasons including pointing out a landmark or to see where reindeer herds cross a fjord to reach winter feeding grounds as well as the following:
Crossing the Arctic Circle
Crossing the Arctic Circle at Vikingen Islet
We crossed the Arctic Circle in the early morning – a glass of champagne was available (before breakfast – too early for me).
King Neptune welcomes people to his kingdom
From the deck of MS Nordlys, King Neptune welcomes people to the Arctic
King Neptune baptises passengers
King Neptune baptises a hardy passenger with ice cubes after crossing the Arctic Circle on the MS Nordlys
Later the same day King Neptune baptised passengers with ice cubes then warmed them with a tot of cloudberry liquor – this was optional!
Viewing the Northern Lights from the MS Nordlys
Aurora Borealis, the Northern Lights, seen from the deck of MS Nordlys
And, of course, to let people know when the Aurora Borealis was visible. This happened twice on our journey north and it was one of the reasons we took the trip.
Mission accomplished.